The Bowl Headed

Fashion + Imagery


February 19, 2016

Fall Menswear 2016




But every season of menswear, I always feel compelled to say something about the clothes; since I’m lazy, most attempts I’m won over by my procrastinating ego. Now that the fashion week for menswear’s fall has long closed its’ curtains and being the Z-list blogger that I am, let me share my insight of the just concluded Fall 2016 Menswear. There’s not a lot; consider me a rookie at this. With that being said, I am trying to avoid overwriting adjectives and hoping to not redundantly bombard you with "I love this!"-s.  As I’ve only been in the menswear bandwagon for quite a while I can’t say that this means whatever is said is of legitimate standards, but I’ll base it off from what I feel is the basis of my keen observation and strong feeling of lustful desires towards these luxury of garments.
This season felt like an unexciting one for menswear for me. Not as innovative as the previous ones, I'd say. The silhouettes were cliché, like previous seasons: non-conforming lengths and slouchy silhouettes (for men's). But for 2016 Fall, one revolving theme was generally pushed by various houses. From the scarcity of it last season to the abundance of different pieces this Fall- that is: Genderless Fashion. Men in dresses, men in skirts, certainly the banner for genderless bravery is up-high and blatantly waving.
There was a lot to look at, hours and days of scrolling through Vogue Runway for the latest about fashion week (Couture came by and LFW is coming), so I took the time to curate the standouts for me this season. We can agree to disagree with this list, but I feel like these brands sat close with my aesthetic/ taste so that, you can’t argue with.
MAN (Grace Wales Bonner, Rory Parnell-Mooney, Charles Jeffrey)
J.W Anderson
Vivienne Westwood
Juun J.
Dries Van Noten
 Gucci was a standout this season, with the whole 70's-vibe collection: embellished jackets, color-blocked ensemble there's more for one than one can think of. Ever since Alessandro Michele took over Gucci, there has been a change of wind for me. From consciously ignoring their collection on fashion-driven websites to getting awed at every piece they put out (e.g Lady Gaga super bowl outfit). Onto MAN, dubbed as a talent incubator by Vogue with a generally diverse collective of designers that offer something more than sheer fashion. They are talent. Where the likes of Jonathan Anderson hailed, I personally think there is a lot more to expect from these designers. From Grace Wales Bonner's African infused collection to Rory Parnell-Mooney's collection that is reminiscent of his youth, and ending the trifecta with a drag-inspired-drag-driven collection by Charles Jeffrey. Truly, these three represented three different aesthetic but undermines one thing: being bold. With J.W Anderson: there was a soft to neutral palette and a closely similar silhouette from his previous menswar collection. The difference with this is the touch on sleepwear: silver and black pajamas and pretty much the whole snail print on some of the pieces that enveloped his theme about fashion and its’ speed. Yes, sprinkle some allegory in there Anderson.
In theory, I guess Vivienne Westwood’s Fall 2015 Menswear 1st look foreshadowed us for this extravagance (i.e tartan jacket and trousers finished with a pair of suede blue high heels). This house is pushing for genderless fashion. Men in all forms of dresses; there is one of every type of dress in a girl’s closet. That is how you blend gender in fashion. Make it scream! As for Juun J, as shameful as it sounds, the only time I’ve heard about this brand is by a friend who mentioned it to me. Regretfully shameful. This season, they have put up a great way to show how to dress smart without looking boring. The layers, slouchy silhouettes, and oh! Pinstripes, I can go on and on and on. The most cliché way a brand can go for menswear is always the blazer and trousers combo; in a way tiresome to the eye for its redundancy but I think Juun J has done it in a way that suits the brand’s aesthetic and avoid the businessmen’s “uniform”.  Finally, Dries Van Noten. I was hooked and have been looking forward to every men’s show since their Spring 2015; with their play on harness and as evident with this season’s collection, I was obsessed and so was the world. I think DVN is one of the few brands that would really get you anticipating on what they do with their menswear collection. They never disappoint. This collection, well I’d want to say the comeback of their harness matched with smart layering (almost to the extent of referring it to hip-hop layering: baggy shorts and pants underneath or it’s just me), created a whole different mood for me. It is almost a dark-whimsical affair, especially since the show was held on a theater stage (thank you Youtube!).
In general, this season was an average spectacle for innovation but great in visual relevancy: slouchy silhouettes, multiple layering (still). One point I noticed is that the minimalism trend is slowly taking a few step backs paving the way for ostentatious details (e.g Gucci jackets, JW Anderson snail prints, and more varying prints). I also believe that monogram has something to do with this. With houses, getting their classic monogram handbags back on the shelves (i.e Louis Vuitton and Gucci) it’s safe to say, it’s also gonna make its way to clothes. To wrap everything up, in a broke-consumer’s perspective, I think these houses making a stand on societal issues through fashion or through the clothes they make is a great way to normalize what is preferably out of the box for some. In the years to come, expect more guys in dresses and skirts, I tell you it will be the new norm.

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